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Q:
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Submitted 10 days ago | by
Mart, Unknown
Answered 8 days ago | Alastair
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Q: shower as to be turned up to 10 to get water luke warm and then it goes cold . could you please advise what maybe the problem
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Submitted 27 days ago | by
Anonymous, worcester
A: It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have amultimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud ornot) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 26 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hello,
Can i replace the 9.5kW heater can (which is completely faulty) with the 10.5kW model? Are the wiring connections going to be basically the same or can I modify these myself to incorporate an extra element if required (I am a qualified electrician). Thank you.
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Submitted 29 days ago | by
ikilley, Sheffield
A: Yes in theory you should be able to change this over.However.........we couldn’t guarantee the tank or the ancillary parts. Answered 28 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: 4 yr old shower tripped the fuse and has since been well below desired water temp. Used your forum and having established TCO has continuity, now presume an element has gone. Can I test the elements without removing/disembling the heater can assembly? Brief instructions would be great!
If I was to buy a replacement can, are instructions provided that will let a novice get the job done?
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Submitted 36 days ago | by
AndyB, Sutton Coldfield
A: Yes itsounds like a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a readingof around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have amultimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud ornot) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Thereno instructions however the replacement is fairly straightforward.
Turn of the water and power you then have to dismantlemost of the inside of the shower to get enough space to slip the old part outand the new part in. This sounds more difficult than itactually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts etc.come from and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos asyou go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding. Answered 33 days ago | The doc |
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Q: I can't get much heat out of the shower - The second (hottest) setting has stopped working - The first heat setting still works, but I have to turn the pressure right down to a trickle to get any heat - a shower takes ages!
Can you please advise - Many thanks.
ps. Happy New Year
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Submitted 36 days ago | by
Bazz, Scotland
A: It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have amultimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud ornot) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester PS. Back taework wi a sair heid! Answered 33 days ago | The doc |
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Q: We usually have the shower on high heat level with the temp dial around 5.
The heat level has started jumping down to low (not cold). Sometimes this happens within about 10 secs sometimes after about a minute. Can usually press the high heat level button again to get it back up but will always jump down again. Sometimes pressing high level button has no effect and it stays on low heat setting.
Occasionally all heat level lights go out and shower just runs cold.
Was thinking it was a control pcb problem but open to suggestions to fix.
Thanks
Michael
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Submitted 63 days ago | by
Anonymous, Nottingham
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
If it shows low pressure after the above checks then carry out the checks below. The first things to check are: 1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open. 2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open. If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore no power will get to the elements and the unit will show low pressure. Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve Finally when you turn the water on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator on top of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of the PCB make sure they are properly aligned. If all these are OK then you probably have a fault with your PCB. The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCB however they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the low pressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB. Answered 61 days ago | The doc |
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Q: shower just went off water not flowing but low pressure light coming on have checked water supply and cleaned filter but will still not work
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Submitted 70 days ago | by
mouldy, Co durham
A: Sorry for the delay in replying It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 63 days ago | The doc |
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Q: my shower is leaking from the joint between the inlet assembly and stabiliser valve/solonoid assembly, have cleaned the joint and put back together the leak stopped for a while and is now dripping very slightly. could it just need a new O ring in the joint
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Submitted 71 days ago | by
val, gravesend
A: Sorry for the delay in replying Unlikely but not impossible these ‘O’ rings don’t move so they don’t ware The more usual fault would be a leak from the stabilizer valve running down the back and making it look like a leek from the joint. Answered 63 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Just had the second unit stop working on me so I stripped the first one down and found the heater can full of calcium deposits, I shook all those out and the unit worked for a while longer but now even that remedy won't fix the low pressure light coming on. Does this mean another new unit or can I try anything else. Apart from a water filte!
Thanks
Almids
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Submitted 81 days ago | by
Almids, Norfolk
A: If you have a low pressure light on an Opal The first things to check are: 1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open. 2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open. If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore no power will get to the elements and the unit will show low pressure. Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve Finally when you turn the water on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator on top of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of the PCB make sure they are properly aligned. If all these are OK then you probably have a fault with your PCB. The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCB however they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the low pressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB. Answered 81 days ago | The doc |
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Q: My shower blew the main fuse recently and now only reaches a medium temperature, even when on high. I have checked the heating element and I think one of them has gone (it has much higher resistance than the other).
However, the strange thing is that the shower now makes a funny noise, even when it is not running. This buzzing noise seems to be coming from the heating can. Also, there is power going to the dodgy element even when the shower is not running. The live wire to this element appears to be slightly burnt.
Could there be a more serious problem than simply the heating can? I have actually just bought a new heating can from you so was hoping that would be it.
Thanks.
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Submitted 82 days ago | by
Dan, Leeds
A: Blowing the main fuse would make me think that one of the elements has gone, however usually this means no resistance why don’t you check it against the new can. From what you say you still have power going to one of the elements even when switched off this would point to a faulty/stuck relay on the PCB. The wires over heating a little is not unusual however there is a difference between overheating and burnt! If you can pin down the fault to one thing then it is worth repairing, if however you need a tank and a board then perhaps something else would go wrong for a shower this age I would say it is uneconomic to repair .....unless of course it is built into tiles or something. As long as the heating tank is unused you can return it for a full refund. Answered 81 days ago | The doc |
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Q: Hi everyone . my shower seems to have plenty of water pressure. It starts on the II heat settimg and after a few seconds trips to low pressure warning and goes cold .Sometimes I have put it round to full heat and brought the temperature back round and it has worked for a while. there is plenty of water pressure because when it is in cold so called low pressure you can feel the surrounding air pressure changing due to the force of the shower.
Any ideas anyone is it a case of new shower if not which part do you think it requiers.
regards Nigel
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Submitted 83 days ago | by
nigel 1804, leeds
A: The first things to check are: 1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open. 2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open. If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore no power will get to the elements and the unit will show low pressure. Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve Finally when you turn the water on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator on top of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of the PCB make sure they are properly aligned. If all these are OK then you probably have a fault with your PCB. The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCB however they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the low pressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB. Answered 82 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: When I press a button to get the shower to go on it starts running and the red light comes on. When I release the button the red light comes off, the shower runs cold for a couple of seconds and then the water stops.
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Submitted 88 days ago | by
rach123, Dundee
A: Almost certainly a faulty power PCB Answered 84 days ago | The doc |
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Q: I get the low pressure light on low power but on high power it flicks between working and showing the low pressure light.
I have checked the stopcock (only valve upstream), gauze filter, stabiliser valve (flow varies from cold to hot) and the flow valve is pushing the microswitch fine (in fact it nudges the whole PCB). The relays spark frequently (lower one in low power, both in high power). Are there any other tests I can or need to do, or have I done enough to eliminate everything except the power PCB?
The price of a power PCB is close to a new shower, especially as this one is on a 32A MCB so I can only use it on low to avoid tripping (no 40A way spare until I change the consumer unit) - seriously thinking about replacing it with a 7.5kW shower for now if it is the PCB.
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Submitted 89 days ago | by
Boater, Scotland
A: It certainly sounds like a PCB fault and you are correct without changing the fuse you are stuck with 7.5kw Answered 88 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: Yesterday the shower was fine but after a while there was a pop and it stopped working. It had tripped the Mains switch. Now each time the shower is turned on by the external pull switch it Trips the mains. What may be the problem and how can it be resolved.
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Submitted 110 days ago | by
Helen, Weymouth
A: It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have amultimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud ornot) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 110 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hello.
I have no hot water from my shower anymore.
I cannot get either the full or half heat options to come on when I click them,
When I do try to push them the low pressure light comes on and no heat comes out. when I let go the shower just returns to the cold setting.
I have tested the TCO and thereI am getting a signal so I don't think this is the problem.
What else can I test? What do you think the problem might be?
Thank You
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Submitted 123 days ago | by
Teresa, Nottingham
A: Check that incoming water mains stopcock and any isolation valve in the feed to the shower are fully open. Check with your supplier if there has been any reduction in water supply flow or pressure. Check that gauze filter in inlet to solenoid valve is clear. If all above are ok then with shower on check that actuator on top of the flow valve is operating the small button switch on the bottom of the printed circuit board , if it is not then it is the flow valve at fault. If the switch is being activated then it is the power printed circuit board that requires to be replaced. Either part can be ordered online via the kink below. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-89-Triton-Opal-II Answered 122 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: cold water - control buttons not working to adjust water temperature stays on cold control
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Submitted 125 days ago | by
bubbles, telford
A: If the shower is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs If there is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 125 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hello
My shower tripped the mcb during use but not the rcd. Now as soon as you press the start button it trips out, sometimes takes out the RCD as well. Is this likely to be the heating element?
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Submitted 139 days ago | by
Rich, manchester
Answered 137 days ago | Alastair
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Q: This unit is about four years old.If you press and hold the temperature select button the you get hot water as normal, but as soon as you let go of the temperature select button the light goes out and the shower switches off. Should I just get a new shower given the age?
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Submitted 145 days ago | by
Dingdong, East Yorks
Answered 144 days ago | The Doc Answered 144 days ago | The Doc
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Q: My shower runs fine on the cold setting but when i press the button to change it to hot i.e. two red circles, it trips the mains power out. I have took the front cover off and there appears to be no trace of water ingress into the unit. Is this a common fault? Can it be fixed?
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Submitted 150 days ago | by
Ben, Wrexham
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878
If it is a faulty element replacement can be ordered online by clicking on the linknbelow
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/creda/REDR-93590708-Redring-Element---Cylinder-Assy-9-5kw-93590708 Answered 148 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: I have noticed over the past week or so the lights cycling on my front panel but did not think much of it as it still worked fine, now when I turn my shower on but it does not produce any warm water. It makes a buzzing sound every second or so.
I have taken the front cover off and turned the shower on - the noise happens at the same time as the relay switches switch over and back again, but not actually staying in one position
Can you please advise as to what the problem is?
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Submitted 154 days ago | by
Mr P, Altrincham
A: From your description of the fault I think you have a problem with one of the relays on the PCB therefore you will need a new power PCB. Answered 153 days ago | The doc |
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Q: I have a Triton Opal 2 approx 2-3 years old , and now it only has freezing cold water coming out of it. Have tried tunring temp knob from hot to cold etc to no avail. The low pressure light is on despite pressure seeming ok - what else can I check
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Submitted 167 days ago | by
Mel, Durham
A: I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements until the water cools, this can take up to 15mins) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs When fitting a new TCO listen to the shower, after it has completed its first on/off cycle, if when it is switched off you hear it continuing to heat (Noise like a kettle starting to boil) this will mean that there is a switch or a relay that is stuck in the on position, this is keeping an element energised and this is probably what caused the original TCO to fail. If this is the case replace the faulty switch or relay and make sure that you switch the shower off at the isolating switch when the shower is not in use or this will cause the new TCO to fail. Answered 167 days ago | The Doc |
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Submitted 175 days ago | by
teeny, Salisbury
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
Answered 175 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Shower is not getting hotter from medium to high setting, and is not a hot as it should be on high.
I have tested with a multi metre across the element red and blue and then across the secon one. First got a reading of 10.7 and then got no continuity across the second. A ssume that one of the elements has gone.
If I was to buy a heat can assembly, how easy is it to fit.
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Submitted 233 days ago | by
paul, Halesowen
A: The replacement is fairly straight forward.
Turn of the water and power you then have to dismantle most of the inside of the shower to get enough space to slip the old part out and the new part in. This sounds more difficult than it actually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts etc. come from and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos as you go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding. Answered 231 days ago | The doc |
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Q: I recently had a problem with a low pressure light, so followed the checks to make on this site and ended up buying a new PCB. Everything has been working as good as new for the past two weeks. Now I notice that it is not as hot as it should be on high temp setting. It is the same temp as if I put it on the med temp setting.
From what I have read I understand that this could be a heating element. I have a multi meter, but could you explain exactly how I check the elements, where I put the meter etc. Also, how easy is it to change for a DIY person (bearing in mind I changed the PCB no problem.
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Submitted 236 days ago | by
paul, Halesowen
A: Yes it definitely sounds like a heating element With the power off Put the black probe into the large connector block that the black wire goes to. Put the red probe on to the rods that come out of the heating tank that the brown or red wires go to, then check the resistance reading. With showers that have a PCB, the black probe will have to go onto the black or blue wires, that connect to the rods that come out of the heating tank. The replacement is fairly straight forward.
Turn of the water and power you then have to dismantle most of the inside of the shower to get enough space to slip the old part out and the new part in. This sounds more difficult than it actually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts etc. come from and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos as you go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding. Answered 231 days ago | The doc |
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Q: My opal 2 has started overheating. The top left section above the tco gets hot to the touch if it is used on 2 circles for more than 5 mins. on 1 circle it feels fine even if the temp is turned all the way up.
I had opened it as i was smelling a tcp like smell. the tco sticker is discoloured and the plastic housing has started to burn. the wiring is fine apart from the white cable that goes from the tco to the pcb. it has become hard and inflexible.
am presuming that it is the heating element and that i should change the tco to be safe can i replace the white wire?
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Submitted 244 days ago | by
cammymc, glasgow
Answered 242 days ago | Alastair
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Q: My Opal 2 has a problem, we can not control the water temperature,it gets to hot.
What controls this and can i change the part if i buy it from you?
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Submitted 260 days ago | by
Bob, Basingstoke
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally Answered 258 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: First the low pressure light started to flicker on medium setting and then staying on, now it is doing it on high setting. It usually clears after its been on a while. Sometimes you have to turn it off and on again to get it to clear.
I have had the front cover off and the white plunger is switching the micro switch on the pcb, so there seems to be enough water pressure.
I also noticed that there are two switches on the PCB that switch on and off according to which switch, low, med or high are pressed. I noticed that the top one makes a green flash quite a lot. (one with a copper coil next to it)
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Submitted 265 days ago | by
Paul, Halesowen, West Midlands
A: The first things to check are: 1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open. 2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open. If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore no power will get to the elements and the unit will show low pressure. Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve Finally when you turn the water on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator on top of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of the PCB make sure they are properly aligned. If all these are OK then you probably have a fault with your PCB. The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCB however they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the low pressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB. Answered 264 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi. My shower works fine, but when its on it makes a clicking noise. The noise is only present when the shower in producing warm to hot water. It seems to be coming from the Heater Can Assembly. Any ideas?
Many Thanks
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Submitted 323 days ago | by
Ross, Wimbledon
A: I think I would really need to hear the noise to be sure. However as showers get older they can make a noise rather like a kettle heating up or you may be hearing the relays on the PCB clicking in and out. Answered 322 days ago | The doc |
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Q: Hi,
My shower has started having flashing lights on it and it goes from the blue circle to the 2 red circles constantly. This isn't the major problem that I'm having with it but it might be linked? The major problem is it takes about 10 minutes to even get slightly warm and sometimes it doesn't get warm at all you have to turn it on and off and turn the temperature right up to try and get it to work. It usually makes a noise when its about to get warm and this isn't cutting in as quickly as it used to. This is the 2nd 1 of these showers I've had in 4 years and I don't want to have to buy another 1. I live in a hard water area so have always put the problems I've had before down to limescale.
Can any1 help please??
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Submitted 349 days ago | by
Dani, Thatcham, Berkshire
A: This could be 2 or 3 things however I think you need to check the heating tank first See below It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 348 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My 2yr old triton began playing up when it would trip the trip switch after a few mins on high setting. It is now un-useable as it constantly switches between 1st and 2nd heat settings running cold. Would greatly appreciate any help. Many thanks
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Submitted 351 days ago | by
Clare, Wales
Answered 350 days ago | Alastair
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Q: water leaks out of the outlet pipe when shower is off, can you help please
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Submitted 353 days ago | by
fleggy, doncaster
A: If the water is coming out of the case where the outlet pipe is then you need to remove the cover and locate where the leak is . Once you have identified this click on the link below which will take you to the Opal II page and you can order necessary part online. If you mean tghe drip is coming thrugh the showerhead or hose then you need a new solenoid valve it can be ordered via the same link. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-89-Triton-Opal-II Answered 352 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: shower worked fine for over a year but now low pressure warning light on and unable to select mid or high eat setting.
Water flow seems fine but water does not get warm at all
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Submitted 366 days ago | by
kezar, barry, wales, uk
Answered 362 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Can you help..... Used my shower on sunday night and it was working fine, came to use it on Monday Night and found it not to be working. Light was on on the Isollator on the was, but no light was on, on the shower. the circuit breaker was also fine. please can you advise
Cheers Kev
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Submitted 370 days ago | by
kev, Manchester
Answered 367 days ago | Alastair
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Q: hi
To get hot water on my shower I am having to to the dial up to max. There is also a faint clicking sound coming from the unit when the shower is running.
Is this a faulty thermal cut off?
Best regards,
Paul
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Submitted 387 days ago | by
dog breath, Cheshire
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 385 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: the shower has suddenly stopped working, midway thru having a shower,the light indicator on the unit not present,having isolated at consumer box i removed front cover to find evidence of scorching right hand side ,near the top ,of power pcb ,when power switched back on, the shower switch on the outside of the en suite , indicates power is present in the off position would this be caused thru the pcb being faulty
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Submitted 394 days ago | by
grumpy, bolton
A: I don’t exactly follow the question however....... If the shower stopped mid shower then it may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester It could also be the PCB. If you are getting power to the shower when the isolating switch is in the off position then you have a faulty isolating switch. Answered 392 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi, I have an Opal 2 which is running at low temp unless flow is slowed right down. I suspect one of the heating elements has gone as it makes no difference when switching between setting 2 and setting 3. I put multimeter on can connections, I have continuity on one pair of contacts but open circuit on the other. I think I need a new heater can?
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Submitted 398 days ago | by
Jez, Coventry
A: Yes it certainly looks like you need a new heating can, to be absolutely sure seethe checks below It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 396 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: water gets suddenly too hot and then cold while the shower is running.
Have put in new shower head. Water pressure is also ok.
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Submitted 410 days ago | by
Jack, stevenage
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Answered 410 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: low presure ligh
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Submitted 419 days ago | by
superplum, belfast
A: Missed the shower type in first reply....Also try the following The first things to check are: 1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open. 2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open. If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore no power will get to the elements and the unit will show low pressure. Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve Finally when you turn the water on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator on top of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of the PCB make sure they are properly aligned. If all these are OK then you probably have a fault with your PCB. The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCB however they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the low pressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB. George Click on the link below, choose the manufacturer of the shower you have, scroll down the list of parts and select the part number you require. You can then purchase the items online or call the office on 0131 443 9917 pressing option # 1 for spares. http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#588X0 Shedman20 (One of the forum contributors added this) Have a look at the circuit board that is directly behind the STOP button, mine had a hairline crack here, repaired with soldering iron and thin wire. Use a magnifying glass if necessary, could save you a few bob! Answered 418 days ago | The Doc A: I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs Answered 418 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: when i press the heat 2 button, my electricity trips out from the main fuse board, this does not happen when pressing the single heat or cold running button. Do you have any idea what may be causing this?
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Submitted 422 days ago | by
Ridgo, essex
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 420 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Soft water area. Stopcock fully open, water pressure is high. New hose and shower head, cleaned and checked for blockage.
My Triton Opal II has been progressively more intermittent in heating.
It always has been less effective in the winter, but now is barely heating.
When operated on the High II setting, low pressure light comes on and flickers.
If you're lucky, this dims a bit and the High setting slowly comes to life with some warm water.
Dial is normally at about the 1 o'clock position, but varying it has little effect except when turning it lower (anticlockwise) there is no heat at all.
TCO, Outlet, Tank, checked for continuity with multimeter OK, solenoid checked for resistance and at 3.7.
Tank elements (Red to Blue) show resistance of about 11.5.
No sign of any burning or damage.
Any suggestions please?
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Submitted 426 days ago | by
Don, Glasgow
A: Sounds like you have checked most of the obvious things. The other things to check
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allows power through to the elements
Also check you are getting 1bar water pressure (Phone your local water dept. And ask)
If all of these are OK then you are going to need a power PCB
Answered 423 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: I have a Triton opal 10.5 kw shower, it is 2/3 years old and has been working fine up to few weeks ago, on the Hottest setting with the dial on 1 it is almost scalding hot, and cannot control the heat, it has good water pressure and we have changed the shower head, if you use the lower heat setting with the dial on 10, it is barely luke warm and very little water pressure. Any ideas please.
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Submitted 454 days ago | by
Decibel
Answered 453 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Shower 18 months old and was working perfectly. Two days ago water stopped mid-flow, low pressure light appeared. Water started again a few minutes later then went off again. This happens with cold water too. Water pressure fine and no problems in the area. Triton book seems to say, even if low pressure, water should still flow. Could you advise, please. Thank you. William Law
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Submitted 454 days ago | by
Billy
A: If the water on your shower is cutting off Intermittingly or mid flow and works ok again after 10 - 15 minsthen a new solenoid coil is need for the solenoid valve assembly.
You can fit a new complete solenoid valve assembly which is around £25 - £30 or just fit a new coil which is a fraction of the cost under part number HYDR-27600 Answered 454 days ago | SD |
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Q: the low preasure light on and both 1 and 2 red lights off can you give me names ov showers what will fit without changing plumbing thankyou
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Submitted 487 days ago | by
greyhound5
Answered 486 days ago | Anonymous
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Q: Although the shower used to work perfectly, the water flow is now very low. This sometimes seems to be addressable by disconnecting the hose from the base of shower unit itself and then reconnecting, but I don't think it's a kink in the hose (which I've just replaced) and we never get the full flow you'd expect. This also affects the temperature and we can't use it on the "hot" setting (where the heater seems to keep kicking in and out, so the water goes from cold to scalding - the heater seems to work continously on the warm setting, but water flow affects temp. We've had 3 Triton's in 5 years, one of which had a new PCB and none have lasted 2 years - is this a known fault? Thanks
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Submitted 502 days ago | by
Mike
Answered 500 days ago | Alastair
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Q: hi i recently purchased this item, i fitted it and it was ok but on having having a shower for the first time its started too happen again can you advise me on what has happened.
many thanks
A Bown ......
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Submitted 535 days ago | by
leedso
A: There are several reasons why the PRD - Pressure Relief Device activates:
1, The shower head is blocked or the jets are scaled up.
2, The hose was kinked during showering or the hose has collapsed on the inner tube.
3, A burst of pressure to the shower due to the water board woring in the area and turning the water back on.
Theses things need to be checked! Answered 534 days ago | SD |
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Q: Hi,
Recenlt my Triton Opal 2 shower had been running hot and cold and now there is no hot water at all. At the moment the only button that lights up is the cold one at the bottom despite pressing the other two first for a hot shower. We have had a terrible problem with limescale and bits of rubbish making its way to the shower head and blocking it, but this was not always the case. Have my problems got anytrhing to do with the element? Also wondering if this can be cleaned from rubbish at all to make it work better. Any advice is appreciated.
Regards,
Daniel.
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Submitted 540 days ago | by
danny
Answered 539 days ago | Alastair
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Q: The temperatur of water keeps going red hot then cold, is it the thermostat which part do I need to order
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Submitted 582 days ago | by
junior
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Answered 581 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: shower is taking a while to heat up now. Can this be the thermo cut off.
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Submitted 582 days ago | by
tommymac
A: If it is heating at all the TCO is OK There are two other possibilities It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Or a faulty outlet TCO The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose) Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced. Answered 581 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: to get hot water I have to turn the dial to 7 -8, but when I do thisthe pressure goes very low - what can the problem be
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Submitted 589 days ago | by
B
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester The other thing to check is the outlet TCO The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose) Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced. Answered 588 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: When running hot the shower unit went pop and blew fuse. Reinstated fuse and started shower which blew again after about one minute.
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Submitted 638 days ago | by
Bob
A: First What size is your fuse? It needs to be 45amp. If the fuse is OK It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 637 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Mains water and power supply all OK, turn on the shower - nothing, no water no noise no red lights. Any ideas?
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Submitted 656 days ago | by
Bob
A: Could be 2 or 3 things. Is the light on at the pull cord ? No light could mean a faulty pull cord. If the light is OK then next you need to check the solenoid, see below. It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.
If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester
If the solenoid is OK then Check the TCO, see below.
I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)
If all these are OK then you probably need a new power PCB.
Answered 656 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My Opal II no longer produces hot water - the water is just cold - it gets slightly warm when the flow rate is reduced to minimum. This follows an occasion when soon after turning the shower on the electric trip switch activated. What is the most likely cause and can I fix it by replacing just the heater?
Nick
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Submitted 657 days ago | by
Nick
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878 Answered 657 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: When switched off using the stop button, after a few seconds the water starts again and pulses. Is this the solenoid?
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Submitted 668 days ago | by
Bribo
Answered 665 days ago | The Doc
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