Triton Rapide 3

A: 

I probably needs a new solenoid valve

A: 

 The replacement isfairly straight forward.

Turn of the water and power, then you then have toslacken off most of the screws around the tank, inlet valve and outlet pipe toget enough space to unscrew the screws that hold the old PRD in place then itis just a case of fitting the new PRD and retightening /replacing any screwsyou have removed.

This sounds more difficult than itactually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts etc.come from and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos asyou go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding.

 

 

A: 

It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have amultimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: Yes no resistance = faulty.

A: 

If when you switch off the shower at the main isolatorand the shower keeps running then you have a faulty solenoid.

 

When you switch off the shower at the mainisolator  and the water stops  running, then you have a faulty on/off switchor a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is sticking on.

 

 

 

A: 

If when you switch off the shower at the main isolatorand the shower keeps running then you have a faulty solenoid.

 

When you switch off the shower at the mainisolator  and the water stops  running, then you have a faulty on/off switch ora micro switch that is sticking on.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83305380-Triton-Start-Stop-Assy-(white-push-button-not-supplied)

 

 

 

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A: 

Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap.

 

However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit  (Tritons word not mine!)

 

The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions.

 

Here is the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

 

See Video at the foot of the page

 

A: 

I am not sure if you may just need to replace the hose or if your Pressure Relief Device has activated.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-82800450-Triton-Pressure-Relief-Device-82800450

A: The Rapide 3 is no longer available , best replacement would be the Triton T80z 10.5 kw which is designed for retrofit and will be fairly straightforward to fit , it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8001ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z Electric-Shower-10-5kW-(White-Chrome)-

A: 

You need to replace the isolating switch.

http://www.showerdoc.com/electrical-products/ELWBG002-45-Amp-Ceiling-Switch

http://www.showerdoc.com/electrical-products/ELWAC-249-45-Amp-wall-plate-Switch

 

 

A: If you click on the link below it will take you to our range of Triton slider brackets, the important thing to check is the diameter of your riser rail once chosen it can be ordered online.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-accessories/slider-brackets/triton

A: This is most likely caused by low water flow making the thermel cut out operate.
Check that hose is not kinked or collapsed internally and the showerhead is clear.
Check thatb water mains stopcock and any isolation valve on feed to shower are fully open
Check gauze filter in solenoid valve is clear.
If all above are ok then it is likely to be stabiliser valve at fault, if you click on the link below you will be able to select the appropriate one and order online.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-94-Triton-Rapide-3