Triton Aquatronic 3 plus

A: 

I think the pressure relief device has blown.

 

It’s a safety device on the bottom of theheating tank.

 

It is fairly easy to replace however there isusually something that causes it to blow,

often a kink in the hose or the showerhead isblocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-82800450-Triton-Pressure-Relief-Device-82800450

A: 

A: See the whole of the link below for replacing and testing the affected part.

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83300450-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-Assembly-83300450

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you havea multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failedstate.) (When it has stopped working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is notoperating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The videois intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checkingand testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are reallyuseful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fusesand letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of otherjobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

I notice you said that you replaced the solenoid recentlyhowever can you check it.

Is there something leaking inside the unit?

The reason I ask this is it is unusual for the switch torust also if there is any dampness about this will shorten the life of thesolenoid.

 

A: You need to find out where the leak is coming from. With the power of, remove the front cover and see if you can see any water inside the unit.

http://www.showerdoc.com/trito-parent-48-triton-aquatronic-3-plus

These units sometimes leak from the front of the item marked 7-8 on the diagram. Pressing the front in the middle may produce a drip, if so this is the part to replace.

A: 

This part (Triton 83305380 ) does not come up in our system as a part of an Aquatronic 3 plus, But does show as a part from an Aquatronic 3 electric. So, I cannot definitely say they are compatible.

A: 

Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer  valve


http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-P07810800-Triton-Stabiliser-Valve-Assembly-%287-5-8-5-9-5kw%29-P07810800

A: 

I am as certain as I can be that this doesn’t come apart ifit is really bad you could fit a new front cover.

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-P09230603-Triton-Front-Cover-Assembly-P09230603

 

A: The solenoid valve has failed oen and needs to be relaced , it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below. The wattage of your showeer will be on a label in or on the unit , but will also be stamed on to of the heating can.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83300450-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-Assembly-83300450

A: 

This is now part of the front cover assembly which comes complete with knobs and on/off switch.

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-P09230603-Triton-Front-Cover-Assembly-P09230603

A: Good morning,

Thank you for your email.

In terms of the problems that you are experiencing, there are a few checks that you need to carry out first. The things to check first are:

1. That the stop-tap on the line into the house is fully open.
2. That the stop-tap on the line into the shower is fully open.
The above taps both need to be open to ensure that enough water is getting to the shower.

In addition to the above, there is a fine gauze filter located on the solenoid where the water pipe enters the shower. If this filter is blocked (however slight this blockage may be) then the flow of water coming into the shower may be restricted. This could cause the temperature of the water leaving the shower to fluctuate.

If all of the above check out fine, then it may be a faulty flow stabiliser valve not allowing enough water to flow round the shower. When there is not enough water flowing round the shower it will not be allowed to cool down properly. The shower will heat up too quickly and the  thermal cut-out will kick in, causing the water to go cold. Once the shower has cooled down, the whole process will simply start again. In terms of checking for a faulty stabiliser valve, you can try running the shower with the shower head removed from the hose. Forgetting about temperature turn the dial to fully cold. The water should blast out here. And, when turned to hot, the water should come out of the hose at no more than a trickle. If there is not much difference between the two, then it could well be a faulty flow / stabiliser valve.

I would also (just to be sure) check the secondary thermal cut-out located on the outlet pipe. If there is any evidence of loose connections here, or burn out on the wires, this could be the part at fault.

Please follow the link below to view the available spares list for your shower. Here you will find listed all of the parts referred to above...

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-48-Triton-Aquatronic-3-plus

I hope that this helps you out.

Regards,

Michael.
The Shower Doctor.

A: Any of the handsets in this link provided will be suitable for your shower - http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-accessories/shower-heads/triton

A: 

If you mean the switching assembly yes it is still available.

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-82500160-Triton-Switching-Module-Assy-Up-To-9-5kw-Rated-Units-82500160

http://www.showerdoc.com/trito-parent-48-triton-aquatronic-3-plus

A: 
Hello,

Unfortunately that part is now obsolete. The shower itself was discontinued a while ago now. There isn't a direct replacement, but you could use the Trito T80Z, which is as close as you will get.

Regards,

Stuart

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A: It is almost certainly the solenoid coil. If you click on the link below it will take you to a video clip showing how to test and change the coil and allow online ordering.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/HYDR-27600-Universal-Solenoid-Coil-(No-Valve)