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Triton T300si Remote Shower Spares

TRITO-PARENT-35

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FAulty TCO Follow Up Question 1 Answer

Q: The shower did appear to continue to heat. Sounds like a faulty/sticky relay. If I do have a faulty relay how would I replace it as it is on the main PCB. If it is a simple job would you stock spares?

Submitted 12 days ago | by Dave, London
! Answer this question
If we find a shower that has a faulty relay then we change the whole PCB.
A: We do not supply relays only and would not recommend just changing these.Answered 10 days ago | Barrie
Triton T300 Si Remote - Faulty TCO 1 Answer

Q: Recently my shower started running cold. The TCO was showing no continuity and so I replaced it. The shower worked great. A couple of days later I had the same fault and so replaced the TCO again. It ran great for a couple of showers and then went again. There is obviously a reason why this keeps happening but do you have any ideas why?



Thanks for your help.

Submitted 17 days ago | by Dave, London
! Answer this question

A: After fitting a new TCO

When fitting a new TCO listen to the shower, after it has completed its first on/off cycle, if when it is switched off you hear it continuing to heat (Noise like a kettle starting to boil) this will mean that there is a switch or a relay that is stuck in the on position, this is keeping an element energised and this is probably what caused the original TCO to fail.

If this is the case replace the faulty switch or relay and make sure that you switch the shower off at the isolating switch when the shower is not in use because this may cause the new TCO to fail.

Answered 17 days ago | Barrie
Triton 300si wireless remote 10.5 Kw 1 Answer

Q: Shower about 4 years old and fine till recently. Now Cycles hot and cold on full power but fine on economy. Water pressure and flow rate fine. I have replaced flow stabiliser valve and it still cycles hot and cold on full power although the cycles now seem slower. Any other ideas?

Submitted 32 days ago | by Ged, Liverpool
! Answer this question

A: The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly, the overheat safety devicewill turn
the power off until it cools, then it then it starts to heat again andso on.

Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowingthe correct amount of water into the shower however you have replaced that soit goes back to a pressure or flow problem.

If the above doesn’t solve the problem then you needto check the flow  (How many Lts per min)on fully cold first thing in the morning(When everyone is showering) also you need to let us know what the actualpressure is Answered 31 days ago | The Doc
solenoid valve 1 Answer

Q: could you please tell me if the live wire goes to the back or front of the solenoid or does it not matter

Submitted 35 days ago | by jammer, mersyside
! Answer this question

A: It really doesn’t matter, however if you hold the wires loosely they should fallto the correct place naturally, also you will now know the value of taking acouple of photo’s before you start.

Answered 35 days ago | The Doc
a leak from the stablizer 1 Answer

Q: the shower started to leak from the stablizer As it is under the bath,that i was advised,i did not no it was leaking till the water came through the hall ceiling.I took out the stablizer, put it back and and the low pressure light is on and no hot water. Have you any idea what is wrong.

Submitted 36 days ago | by jamer, mersyside
! Answer this question

A: If the Stab valve was leaking then it almost certainly needs replaced.

If the low pressure light is on then it is likely you have a faulty Thermal Cut Out or you have dislodged one of the wires when you removed the stab valve.

Answered 36 days ago | The Doc
Triton T300Si 9.5kw - low pressure light 1 Answer

Q: I have a Triton T300si 9.5kw which goes to low pressure whenever another tap or fitting i used in the flat. I am told that the pressure is correct and filters clean etc. How dow i establish what the minimum pressure level is for the 9.5kw shower?

Is the low pressure level any different for the 10.5kw power?

Submitted 42 days ago | by Andy, St Ives, Cornwall
! Answer this question

A: To ensure activation of the heating elements, the shower must be connected to a mains water supply with a minimum running pressure of 100 kPa (1.0 bar) at a minimum flow rate of nine litres per minute.

For the 10.5kW rated shower, the minimum running pressure must be 150 kPa (1.5 bar) at a minimum flow rate of eleven litres per minute.

Answered 42 days ago | Barrie
Triton T300si 1 Answer

Q: The on off button on the remote unit is on but nothing happens when i push it to start shower none of the other lights go on

Submitted 44 days ago | by Neily, Glasgow
! Answer this question
Is there 230-240v into the shower?
A:
If so then, if you have the remote version , check the data cable.Answered 44 days ago | Barrie
T300si remote 1 Answer

Q: When powered on the lights come on in sequence one at a time and nothing else happens. Start/stop button has no light and does nothing when pressed. It has oval remote panel on wall in bathroom and main unit above in loft.

Thanks

Submitted 86 days ago | by Keiron, Southampton
! Answer this question

A: It maybe your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you shouldhave a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and youneed a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (Whenit has stopped working!)

If thereis power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a goodchance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If youdon’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to usethem for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful forchecking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and lettingyou know much power you have left in batteries

(So youwill know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they arewell worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 86 days ago | Barrie
Triton 300si - Start then Stop 1 Answer

Q: My 300si - Water flow stopped mid shower and low pressure light came on.

Tried it later in the day and shower ran ok.

Next morning same fault ran for a minute or so then flow stopped and low pressure light came on.

Solenoid was replaced about 18 mths ago (Part bought from Shower Doctor). Shower is about 8 yrs old.

Submitted 91 days ago | by DaveH, Leeds
! Answer this question
Sounds like the solenoid again, you will have to check this to be sure.
A:
http://www.showerdoc.com/solenoid-coil-universal-no-valve-hydr-27600Answered 91 days ago | Barrie
Low pressure and cold water light on with no water 1 Answer

Q: The control panel dances through the warm up OK and waits for the On button to be pressed. All OK. When the On button is pressed there is a noise from the remote unit, the light in the bathroom flickers slightly as the heater kicks in ( it usually dims slightly when the shower works) but, the unit has the cold and low pressure lights on with no water. I have looked at the heater operation when the unit does this and there is a spark from the top solenoid as it connects once, plus a bit of noise and that is about it. Some time ago I replaced the whole unit with a new one from yourselves after a previous failure but cant recall the fault from then. I have swapped this solenoid and it is the same issue. The old solenoid could be faulty but will have to check it with my meter. If not the solenoid what could it be? Many thanks, Alan.

Submitted 97 days ago | by Sutty, Liverpool
! Answer this question
The solenoid is part 13 on the diagram, there is only one. The sparking will be coming from the relays on the PCB , this is normal. There should be no dimming of bathroom lights etc.
A: I think you have a faulty solenoid. Or a blocked inlet filter.Answered 97 days ago | Barrie
Triton t300si 1 Answer

Q: I have no water coming from shower head when shower should be running

Submitted 153 days ago | by A J, Berwick upon Tweed
! Answer this question
Check the head and hose are clear and if so then,
A:

it maybe your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you shouldhave a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and youneed a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stoppedworking!)

If thereis power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a goodchance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If youdon’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to usethem for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful forchecking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and lettingyou know much power you have left in batteries

(So youwill know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they arewell worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 153 days ago | Barrie
No power to control panel 1 Answer

Q: Barrie

Solenoid is OK as is the can , resistances are all OK but still no power output. Any thoughts ? The water leak had splashed up the side of the can and lower half of pcb with rust on one of the modules. Obviously keen not just to keep replacing components unless it will be effective.

Submitted 164 days ago | by Pete, Reigate
! Answer this question
Yes it does sound like a faulty PCB, but replacement is the only way to test this I am afraid.
A: Sorry.Answered 164 days ago | Barrie
No power to control panel 1 Answer

Q: Opened up box to find Stabiliser Valve had leaked and water everywhere. Have fixed valve and dried it out but still no power.could the PCB have been damaged ?

Submitted 166 days ago | by Pete, Reigate
! Answer this question

A: It maybe your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you shouldhave a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and youneed a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stoppedworking!)

If thereis power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a goodchance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If youdon’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to usethem for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful forchecking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and lettingyou know much power you have left in batteries

(So youwill know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they arewell worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 164 days ago | Barrie
Triton 300si control PCB fault? 1 Answer

Q: Tried 3 sets of batteries but no red lights . Fair to assume control PCB is dead? Have confirmed connector is plugged in

Submitted 185 days ago | by Finalegroove, Staines
! Answer this question
A: it does sound like this is the case.Answered 185 days ago | Barrie
triton T300si electric shower 1 Answer

Q: Our shower on max heat or power has no temp control and is always burning hot, however there is slight temp control on the economy setting. If I replace the thermal cut out (partNo.4) will this cure it

Submitted 198 days ago | by Rupe, Doncaster Yorkshire
! Answer this question

A: he tat the main valve cominginto your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly, the overheat safety devicewill turn
the power off until it cools, then it then it starts to heat again andso on.

Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowingthe correct amount of water into the shower.


Answered 198 days ago | The Doc
Triton t300si 1 Answer

Q: The start stop button is not working at all. I currently have to take out batteries wait ten seconds, put them back in and the shower will start - I can then use the other buttons or temp dial like normal, but then it won't switch off. I bought the complete shower a year ago. Any ideas.

Submitted 233 days ago | by Anonymous, Essex
! Answer this question

A: It maybe your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you shouldhave a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and youneed a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stoppedworking!)

If thereis power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a goodchance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If youdon’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to usethem for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful forchecking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and lettingyou know much power you have left in batteries

(So youwill know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they arewell worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 233 days ago | Barrie
Triton T300si 1 Answer

Q: Hi,



You answered my query I posted a little earlier but didnt tell me which part I need to fix the problem. Do I need a stepper motor and the stabiliser valve? If so, is there a video on how to change?



Many thanks

Submitted 240 days ago | by Ian4212, Preston
! Answer this question
First you will need to see if I was correct and the leak is from that area. If this is the case then a new stabiliser valve may solve the problem. There is no video on changing this.
A:

I amoften asked “Is this a DIY job” to be honest I can’t answer that, becausewithout knowing someone, it isn’t possible to assess their skills?

Ishould say that most jobs on showers although relatively easy (from my point ofview) can be fiddly and an extra pair of hands, long thin fingers and thestrength in your hands of an all in wrestler are a help!

The secret is, observing very carefully when things are taken tobits, their order and orientation, taking notes and/or photos as you go can alsobe a help.

Whenyou are working with electricity and water so make sure it is switchedoff and turned off before you start.

If youthink you can do the job but aren’t just that confident, it may help to buy thepart and compare it to the faulty part, you will then be able to see where thescrews, wires, nuts, or washers etc. go, if then you think it is to complicated,at least you will have the part when the plumber or electricianarrives.

We will always be here to offer help and advice if you run into aproblem, however it is not the same as being on site where we canget the overhaul picture, if you are still not sure, now is the time to call ina professional.

Answered 240 days ago | Barrie
Control panel 1 Answer

Q: My control panel seems to have stopped working the power is going to my power pack but not to the control panel , Any Ideas?

Submitted 253 days ago | by tezza, essex
! Answer this question
A: It maybe the Power PCB or the control panel itself, and only by substitution will you find out.Answered 253 days ago | Barrie
t300si 1 Answer

Q: had shower about 10 years now but over last few the water coming out is getting colder and colder now only just coming out warm could ya let me no which part needsreplacing cheers

Submitted 294 days ago | by kev, mayland
! Answer this question

A: It may be afaulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers)you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements andno heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it'sprobably a micro switch.

This Video may help

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzPt1hsfVq4cv

If you don’t have a multimeter  wesell them at around £10 each with a link to an on line guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various partsof your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower,they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, forchecking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Theother possibility is the outlet ThermalCut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted onthe out let pipe  (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)

Examine the connections closely if you see anydiscoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced.   

Answered 294 days ago | The Doc
T300i - Pulse of water only when switched on 1 Answer

Q: Powering up the main unit produces the normal 'priming' noise and the controller seems to go through the normal LED sequence when switched on. The water starts to flow but only for a brief 'pulse' - under a 1/2 second - and then it stops.

Submitted 302 days ago | by Paul, Stoke
! Answer this question

A: It maybe your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you shouldhave a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and youneed a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stoppedworking!)

If thereis power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a goodchance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If youdon’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to usethem for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful forchecking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and lettingyou know much power you have left in batteries

(So youwill know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they arewell worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 302 days ago | Barrie
Triton T300si Tripping 1 Answer

Q: My son was using the shower and it tripped the breaker, I reset the breaker and it operated for a few minutes, it then tripped the breaker again. I have checked the wiring and any obvious damage within the unit, nothing can be found. The shower now trips the breaker as soon as I press the start button, do you have any suggestions, the shower is about 3.5 years old. Regards Tony

Submitted 351 days ago | by Tony, Glasgow
! Answer this question

A: It may be afaulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers)you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements andno heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it'sprobably a micro switch.

This Video may help

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzPt1hsfVq4cv

If you don’t have a multimeter  wesell them at around £10 each with a link to an on line guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various partsof your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower,they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, forchecking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 351 days ago | The Doc
triton t300si Temp problem 1 Answer

Q: can not regulate the temperature

Submitted 357 days ago | by Anonymous, Unknown
! Answer this question

A: The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly, the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools, then it then it starts to heat again and so on.

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A rough check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

Answered 357 days ago | The Doc
Triton T300si (Tepid water) 1 Answer

Q: I have a Triton T300si which has suddenly stopped producing hot water, only tepid water. The water flow is strong but does not change by altering the temperature control. I have changed the stabilizing valve ass'y but it is still the same. I have done the following tests:-

Element resistance - 18 ohms & 15 ohms.

Power to elements - yes.

Continuity on TCO - yes.

Continuity on Outlet TCO - yes.

This I think narrows the problem down to the power PCB or the Stepper Motor. Are there any further tests I can do to determine which one is faulty before I go spending any more money unnecessarily.

Submitted 361 days ago | by Archie, Denbighshire
! Answer this question
As it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO
A:
The outlet Thermal Cut Outthis is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out letpipe (The bit between the heating tank and thehose)


Examine theconnections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then theTCO needs replaced.

Answered 360 days ago | Barrie
Triton T300si 1 Answer

Q: Sorry forgot to say only replaced solenoid and not the whole solenoid valve assembly.

Submitted 402 days ago | by Tony, Cornwall
! Answer this question

A: If when you switch off the shower at the mainisolator and the shower keeps running then you have afaulty solenoid.

When you switch off the shower at themain isolator and the waterstops running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is stickingon.

Answered 402 days ago | Barrie
T300 si 1 Answer

Q: I have a T300 si ,approx 9 years old, a few weeks ago it started to continue with water coming out of the shower head when switched of at control unit and at isolator. The amount of water is approx 500mls a minute, so have to turn off water to unit between showers. I have replaced the solenoid and the main seal. When the shower is used the plunger at the top of the stabiliser valve goes up and down fully and I cannot find any leaks inside the unit. Do you have any idea or am I better off taking one on chin and getting a new shower unit.

Submitted 402 days ago | by Tony, Cornwall
! Answer this question

A: If when you switch off the shower at the mainisolator and the shower keeps running then you have afaulty solenoid.

When you switch off the shower at themain isolator and the waterstops running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is stickingon.

Answered 402 days ago | Barrie
T300 si burning wire 1 Answer

Q: The brown wire from connection P9 to the top of the can assembly (9.5 kW) overheats at the connection on top of the can assembly. I replaced the wire and made a tight connection (or so I thought) put a few weeks later the connection overheated again and burnt away the insulation. Is the unit buggered or is it likely to be just a bad connection?

Submitted 403 days ago | by Sweep, Lancashire
! Answer this question
A: Most of the time it is down to a bad connection. I would try again.Answered 402 days ago | Barrie
Triton T300i 9.5kw Wireless shower - No hot water 1 Answer

Q: Hi,



Have shower which is not giving hot water but seems luke warm...completed following check...

i) Reset shower as per instructions...

ii) Check TCO and tested ok...

iii) Check resistance of two elements..12.35 and 12.4 ohms respectively...

iv) Re-powered unit, and called for hot water on remote..

Relay at the top of the pcb energised and have 230v across element. No energisation of relay three (bottom relay on control pcb) hence no power to element across terminals..

iv) Removed main pcb (item 5) an checked resistance across coils of al three relays relay 1 = 144 ohms, relay 2 = 144 ohms relay 3 = 142.5 ohms...



Any suggestions please? Does it mean a diode / resistor or IC on the remote pcb pack (pcb 5 - 7072570) is faulty or could it be something else? i.e the control unit within item 20, 87400020)



All help appreciated...



John

Submitted 404 days ago | by John, Derbyshire
! Answer this question

A: I have to say that I am no expert when it comes to the innerworkings of a PCB.

However from what you say one of the relays on the PCB isfaulty if this is the case then you will have to replace the PCB

Answered 402 days ago | The Doc
T300i 1 Answer

Q: shower only runs cold, if I check TCO for continuity and this is ok, what else should I check...eg how do i check the heater is ok and what else should I check?

Submitted 405 days ago | by John, Derbyshire
! Answer this question

A: If there is some heat it may be a faultyelement in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you cancheck them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and noheat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it'sprobably a micro switch/PCB.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell themat £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the variousparts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, theyare really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, forchecking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they aredud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 405 days ago | Barrie
luke warm in winter 1 Answer

Q: when the weather is cold and the main water coming into my property is cold the shower does not heat it up enough used to work fine just wondering what part needs replacing

Submitted 492 days ago | by kev, essex
! Answer this question

A: The temperature and flow rate are always (Nearlyalways!! and always in your type of shower) connected.

When you turn your shower on you have a9kw element heating the water and this does not vary the way youalter the temperature is by varying the amount of water that passes over theelement, pass the water over the element slowly (a little water) and it getsvery hot, pass it over quickly (a high flow rate) and it doesn’t have time topick up much heat.

This explains why in the winter at thesame setting as the summer the shower is not so hot because the temperature ofthe incoming water has changed.   

You do not say what kw your shower is.  Also,

it may be a faulty elementin the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can checkthem with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to theelements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have amultimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fixyour shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply toappliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left inbatteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 492 days ago | Barrie
Low water pressure and running cold 1 Answer

Q: Hi I have replaced the valve assembley and solenoid so now the shower turns on and off correctly but it is now showing low pressure and only running cold there is plenty of water pressure when it does run does this mean it's the can at fault now?

Submitted 496 days ago | by Anonymous, Unknown
! Answer this question

A: The things to check firstare:

1 That the main valve cominginto your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower isfully open.

If these valvesare not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheatsafety device will turn the power offuntil it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head isclean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally .
Test the elements in the can to be sure they are ok,

http://www.showerdoc.com/triton-can-assembly-9-5kw-84500290

and since it is a Triton check the outlet TCO at the same time.

Answered 496 days ago | Barrie
Triton T300SI Interchangable Power Pack 1 Answer

Q: Looking at the pictures of the Power Pack for the wireless version I note that the socket for plugging in the wire is still present. Does this mean that if you put the plug in the pcb doesn't hunt for a wireless signal from the control panel?



Anyway I have been offered a wireless power pack but only have a "wired" broken shower at the moment



Cheers

Gary

Submitted 497 days ago | by Foghamshire, Frome
! Answer this question
A: Removing the RF module from the wireless one should bring you back to a remote unit.Answered 497 days ago | Barrie
Interchangable Power Packs? 1 Answer

Q: would the power pack for a wired one be interchangeable with a wireless one?



I note that the wireless one still has the socket foe the lead to the control panel



Cheers

Gary

Submitted 497 days ago | by Anonymous, Unknown
! Answer this question
A: The only differance between the two is the RF module and data cable on the wireless one and the control panel is different.Answered 497 days ago | Barrie
T300si 1 Answer

Q: Shower has suddenly stopped working. Panel lights up fine. On power up, can hear the pump (?) start for a few seconds and the panel lights run through their sequence. When I press the start button you can hear the click of the solenoid valve but no water flows and the low pressure light flashes. I changed the solenoid coil about 12 months ago. Any ideas?!

Submitted 501 days ago | by Russ, Southport
! Answer this question

A: It maybe your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you shouldhave a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and youneed a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stoppedworking!)

If thereis power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a goodchance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If youdon’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to usethem for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful forchecking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and lettingyou know much power you have left in batteries

(So youwill know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they arewell worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 500 days ago | Barrie
Very slow water output from shower head. 1 Answer

Q: Water is dribbling out of the shower head. Water pressure is all ok, shower fine when last used 6 hours ago, temp is fine just no water !! Please can you help. Triton T300si

Submitted 503 days ago | by Sue, Bristol
! Answer this question

A: It maybe your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you shouldhave a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and youneed a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stoppedworking!)

If thereis power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a goodchance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If youdon’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to usethem for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful forchecking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and lettingyou know much power you have left in batteries

(So youwill know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they arewell worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 503 days ago | Barrie
Cold Water - Faulty Can? (10.5k T300si) 1 Answer

Q: Hi.

Thank you for your previous response. I have rechecked the TCO (full continuity) and the Solenoid Valve (3.67kohms) so they are definitely not the issue.



My Can appears to only have one element working (11.6 ohms) - would this cause the water to be completely cold or shoud I at least get some warm water even at a trickle). It looks like I'll need a new Can whatever but is it likely that there could be other problems.



This issue only arose after I replaced the leaking stabiliser valve - does that sound normal to you?



After I replaced the valve the shower worked OK when tested but since then it hasn't.



I know I've written a lot but I need to make sure I'm not throwing money down the drain.



Thank you for your assistance.



Submitted 553 days ago | by Dave, London
! Answer this question

A:

The things to check first are:

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

It does sound like the can is faulty though.

Answered 552 days ago | Barrie
Can Assembly/PCB? 1 Answer

Q: Hi. I have replaced the Stabiliser Valve as it was leaking. Now I only have cold water.

I've checked the TCO and Solenoid Valves according to your videos and they appear to be OK.



How can I check that the Can is/isn't working?



I'm guessing I need to replace either this or the PCB (unless you have any other less expensive suggestion) and I want to make sure I get it right before placing an order.



Thanks

Submitted 553 days ago | by Dave, London
! Answer this question

A: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzPt1hsfVq4&feature=plcp


It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 553 days ago | Barrie
triton t300si remote 1 Answer

Q: can you supply the control cable for the t300si remote

Submitted 561 days ago | by kele, nottingham
! Answer this question
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/electric-showers/trito-82300900-triton-inter-connecting-tube-82300900
A: This is the part that you are after.Answered 561 days ago | Barrie
Triton t300si control panel dead 1 Answer

Q: My triton t300si control panel is dead no lights at all

1 how do i check if this is at fault

2 how do i check the rating of the unit

Submitted 572 days ago | by Kele, Nottingham
! Answer this question
First check that the connector to the remote unit is plugged in and that there is power to this unit. If you have power here and the control panel is plugged in then you can assume that it is faulty.
A:

It came with different ratings there should be a plastic sticker on the underside of the cover and/or inside the unit, also it is stamped into the top of the heating can although this may be difficult to see.

Answered 570 days ago | Barrie
water thro shower. 1 Answer

Q: When I switch the shower on nil water flows through the shower and the low water light lights up.

Submitted 589 days ago | by Bob, Warrington
! Answer this question

A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 589 days ago | Barrie
Triton t300si 1 Answer

Q: Hi the water is very hot even on the lowest setting and it will not switch on to e onomy at all please help.

Submitted 604 days ago | by Lyn2110, Essex
! Answer this question

A: The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

Answered 604 days ago | Barrie
Triton t300si remote broken 1 Answer

Q: I have the triton t300si remote shower. No hot water comes through the shower everything else works as should controls, cold water etc. do you have a solution?

Submitted 612 days ago | by Cd_247, Manchester Uk
! Answer this question

A: If the shower is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

If there is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 612 days ago | Barrie
Temperature Control does not alter water temperature 1 Answer

Q: The Temperature control on my Triton T300si shower will change the water temperature. The Water on high is hot/warmish, but will not go colder or hotter. On the cold setting is remains cold, on the economic setting is remains luke warm, but again when temperature control is turn from 1-10, it remains the same temperature. Water Flow is good, up and until now the shower has functioned correctly. Can you please advise what is wrong so I can the correct replace fault part Thank you. Show is only 3 years old

Submitted 624 days ago | by David, Porthleven Cornwall
! Answer this question

A: Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve.


http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/electric-showers/trito-82600780-triton-stabiliser-valve-assembly-82600780

Answered 624 days ago | Barrie
No power to selinoid 1 Answer

Q: The unit seems to start up and you can hear the water starting to heat befor the low pressure light comes on. I have checked the selinoid and this seems to check out ok but there seems to be no power going to it any suggestions

Submitted 714 days ago | by Mike, Cheshire
! Answer this question

A:  You can check it if you have a multi meter,you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in thefailed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apartfrom helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checkingyou have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and lettingyou know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 714 days ago | Barrie
T300si Low pressure light. 1 Answer

Q: Have had repeated problems with the low pressure warning light coming on and the shower running cold only.

Have been able to remedy the problem for a short while by cleaning the relay contacts on the pcb, but the intervals are getting shorter.

Would replacing the pcb altogether remedy the problem?

Submitted 715 days ago | by Mike999, Nottingham
! Answer this question

A:

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to open/close the safety device that allows the power through to the elements.

Answered 714 days ago | Barrie
tritont300si 1 Answer

Q: apart from a spark on the contacts, can these get stuck open or closed?

Submitted 736 days ago | by marky, cornwalol
! Answer this question

A: Yes these can spark as the contacts make and brake.

The usual fault is the coil that operates the contacts failsand the relay stops working, when this stops working it normally fails with thecontacts open IE no power going through

Answered 736 days ago | The Doc
Spark about half way up PCB on switch off 1 Answer

Q: I have just replaced the stabiliser valve - I thought all went well and it has cured the leak - thanks for the advice. However, when testing I noticed on switch off that there is a spark about half way up the PCB (near 5 and 6 on the diagram). Maybe a daft question, but is this normal behaviour? It looks like there are various contacts that could spark on separation.

Submitted 753 days ago | by Paul, Horsham
! Answer this question

A: Yes this is normal behaviour when contacts make and separate

Answered 752 days ago | The Doc
cracked outlet 1 Answer

Q: the elbow fitting inside the bulkhead has cracked on the corner and leaking quite heavily when shower is on, which part number do i need to get to make the repair

Submitted 785 days ago | by kiwi 46 , great harwood lancs
! Answer this question
http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83304130-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-Assembly-83304130
A:
I think that you are meaning this part.Answered 783 days ago | Barrie
water lukewarm 1 Answer

Q: Hi 1st shower went really hot couldnt use high setting at all but then went lukewarm even on high max.checked all valves ,replaced flow valve and TCO is it the elements?

Submitted 789 days ago | by Anonymous, norwich
! Answer this question

A: If thereis any heat at all then the TCO is not faulty

It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have amultimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 787 days ago | The Doc
Leak 1 Answer

Q: All of a sudden my T300i has sprung a leak, seems that it leaks when shower is running, but stops as soon as you turn shower off. Took cover off, and when shower runs is leaks from around parts 10, 11 and 13 area. Cant see properly where its leaking from as its live and when its turned off does not leak. Its not a small leak, but big enough to soak tea towels in a 20 seconds. Hope im making sense.

Submitted 796 days ago | by flapper, Cowes
! Answer this question

A: It is most likely that the top of the stabiliser valve thatis leaking.

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-82600780-Triton-Stabiliser-Valve-Assembly-82600780

Answered 794 days ago | The Doc
triton TSs00SI 1 Answer

Q: i am lookin for a shower head holder/connector. This part lets you move the shower head at different degree angles. The head can be lifted of this part and put back on it.

Submitted 819 days ago | by sue, Timperley
! Answer this question
Triton shower rails over the years have come with 18mm / 19mm / 20.4 mm / 22mm / and now 25mm diameter rails, however the most common rail they used was the 22mm.
A:
Measure the diameter of your rail or the whole in the handset holder that the rail slides through and choose from one of the following correct size and colour holders in this link provided - http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-accessories/slider-brackets/tritonAnswered 818 days ago | LC
Stabiliser Valve Leaking 1 Answer

Q: I intermittently get water leaking from the stabiliser valve. I have cleaned it once which seemed to fix it for a while, but it occasionally still happens - but will then cease the next time the shower is used, despite no remedial action having been taken.

Any ideas?

Submitted 854 days ago | by Nick23c, Stoke-on-Trent
! Answer this question

A: It is just a diaphragm washer that will be causing the problem, the leak will not go away it will only get worse.

You are going to need a new stab. Valve.

Answered 854 days ago | The Doc
triton 300si remote going hot cold 1 Answer

Q: HI

can anyone help please ,shower temperature fluctuating from very hot to cold, what part do I have to replace to rectify.

Thanks Karl

Submitted 871 days ago | by karl, cheshire
! Answer this question

A: The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

Answered 863 days ago | The doc
low pressure light 1 Answer

Q: low pressure light flashing indicating low pressure, but water pressure ok going into unit, also changed batteries, shower still not working.

Submitted 887 days ago | by wee yin, stonehouse
! Answer this question

A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 885 days ago | The doc
Plunger on stabaliser valve 1 Answer

Q: on the original stabiliser valve there is a white plastic insert which was supper glued in by Triton is this part available



presently good old gaffer tape doing the job but would prefer the right part



















Submitted 907 days ago | by andy , Unknown
! Answer this question

A: I think that this is the part you are looking for? ....Theround part Presses into the top of the valve.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-7051704-Triton-Actuator---Opal-7051704

Answered 906 days ago | The doc
Tepid water temperature 1 Answer

Q: Whether on 1 or 10 the temperature is the same (very slightly lukewarm). The water flow is also the same. As someone on limited income I am trying to get some idea of what it is, and the possible cost for replacement parts, before I call someone out to have a look at it

Submitted 918 days ago | by Sandy, Ashton-under-Lyne
! Answer this question

A: The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allows power through to the elements

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

Also if it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO

The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)
Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced.

The other possibility is a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 918 days ago | The Doc
water leaking 1 Answer

Q: We have water pouring out of the remote box in the airing cupboard? This has all the electrics in it.

Submitted 926 days ago | by snozzer, Nottingham
! Answer this question

A: I think the pressure relief device has blown.

It’s a safety device on the bottom of the heating tank or outlet pipe

It is fairly easy to replace however there is usually something that causes it to blow,

often a kink in the hose or the showerhead is blocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD.

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83301330-PRD-(Pressure-Relief-Device)-and-'O'-ring-(Pair)?ss=prd&pg=2

http://www.showerdoc.com/trito-82800450-triton-pressure-relief-device-82800450

Answered 925 days ago | The Doc
Triton T300Si PCB (Enquiry 22545?) 1 Answer

Q: I previously sent you this question on Sunday 31st July but you wrote to me to say apparently your server was down & you never received the question:



Recently the Stop/Start button on my shower has been misfuncitoning and i have to press it repeatedly or hold it in to get the shower to stop/ start. Can this be remedied by replacing the PCB p/n 7072569?



Mark Dyas

Submitted 983 days ago | by Mark Dyas, Wirral CH63 9LZ
! Answer this question

A: This is a difficult one without being able to see the shower.

The easy answer is to say yes that board should fix the problem, however you could have the same symptoms if you had a faulty relay on the power pack PCB or a solenoid valve that is starting to go faulty.

If once it starts running it will run on its own for say 10 mins then it is unlikely to be the solenoid.

I think you probably need someone pressing the on/off button and someone watching the power pack to work out when the button is pressed, is the relay on the board making and staying engaged or is the relay on the power pack board failing and dropping out.

The answer is probably a little confusing however without seeing this it is the best I can do.

  

Answered 983 days ago | The Dov
T300si Start/Stop problem 1 Answer

Q: In the past week I’ve had a problem with the ‘START/STOP’ button on the control panel of my Triton T300si shower. I have to press it several times or hold it down to start or stop the shower. The rest of the panel seems to work fine. Based on this, would it appear to you that I need to replace the control PCB (Part No. TRITO-7072569)? Is this a user-replaceable part?



Mark Dyas

Submitted 991 days ago | by Mark Dyas, Wirral, Merseyside CH63 9LZ
! Answer this question

A: Have you tried replacing the battery in the remote?

Answered 990 days ago | The Doc
tritont t300si too hot 1 Answer

Q: our shower stays hot all the time.What part has gone wrong

Submitted 1002 days ago | by gary, Rayleigh Essex
! Answer this question

A: The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

Answered 1002 days ago | The Doc
Triton T300si 10KW no water 1 Answer

Q: I have the t300si shower, it recently stopped working. When the isolator is switched on the unit carries out the start sequence as normal, finishing with the start button illuminated. pressing the start button dose not start the shower now. If you could advise on possible fault/s would grateful. Graham

Submitted 1058 days ago | by Graham, London England
! Answer this question

A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 1058 days ago | The Doc
TS300i water not turning off 1 Answer

Q: Hello. I have a TS300i and the water keeps coming out of the shower head even when the power is switched off. Do you think the solenid valve is stuck open? The coil itself has a good resistance test (3.47k).

Submitted 1063 days ago | by Doug, Salisbury
! Answer this question

A: It sounds like a faulty solenoid, here is how to check.

If when you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the shower keeps running then you have a faulty solenoid.

When you switch off the shower at the main isolator  and the water stops  running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is sticking on.

Answered 1063 days ago | The Doc
Triton T300si low pressure light 1 Answer

Q: JUST FITTED TRITONT300i,PRESSURE OK,INLET VALVE CLEAN,HOSES CLEAR.AFTER START UP PERIOD WHEN I PRESS START WATER SPURTS,STOP/START BUTTON FLASHES AND THERE IS A CLICKING NOISE AND 2 SPARKS COMING FROM PCB.THE SWITCH AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PCB AND PLUNGER AT THE TOP OF THE STABILISER VALVE ASSEMBLEY ARE CONSTANTLY SWITCHING ON AND OFF AT THE SAME TIME.WHAT NEEDS REPLACING?

Submitted 1082 days ago | by blue, liverpool
! Answer this question

A: Is it connected to the water mains?

If it is then phone Triton it will be under guarantee if you fiddle about with it you may invalidate the guarantee.

Answered 1080 days ago | The Doc
Triton 300si not working 1 Answer

Q: My T300SI tripped the fuse when I used it recently. My son, a Plumber , checked it out and replaced a burnt out connecter. The shower worked a few times when he tested it but tripped the fuse again when I tried next morning. He now suspects the can assembly, which is an expensive part to buy without knowing for sure. Do you think this is the likely cause of the problem?



Submitted 1097 days ago | by Rockape, Essex
! Answer this question

A: Yes it most likely is the can assembly below is how to check.

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 1095 days ago | The Doc
Can the can assembly be upgraded 1 Answer

Q: I was wondering, if the can assembly could be upgraded in a power pack say for eg: from an 8.5kw to a 10.5kw? (assuming the electrical cable is sufficient).

Submitted 1119 days ago | by Bryan, Swanwick
! Answer this question
A: No the connections are different internallyAnswered 1119 days ago | The doc
SHOWER NOT WORKING 1 Answer

Q: when i turn my t300si shower on, the cold setting light comes on and the low pressure light flashes,but no water comes out of the shower head,do you have any ideas.

Submitted 1119 days ago | by ginger, grays
! Answer this question

A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 1119 days ago | The Doc
T300si 1 Answer

Q: My T300si stopped in mid shower indicating low water pressure. My water pressure is very good and as high as ever but there is a very sleight leak around the solenoid valve. Help and advise please on which part or parts to replace. Also, is there an "O Ring" set available for this model? Thanks in advance



Regards

John P

Submitted 1164 days ago | by john, Southend-On-Sea
! Answer this question
The solenoid valve has failed and needs to be replaced, it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.
A: Afraid there is no seal kit available.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83304130-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-Assembly-83304130Answered 1162 days ago | Alastair
T300si 1 Answer

Q: Hi, have one of these shower units which has suddenly started running at significantly reduced heat, no other symptoms and unlike some of the previous questions, although we live in a small village and are subject to frequent power cuts/brown-outs, I can't tie in the recent problem with the shower to any of these.



Since having the shower we have had the heating element/can replaced 3 times, each approx. 1 year apart and at a cost of £90-ish a go this is fast becoming unreasonable.



The price of your replacements are better, but of course I'll have to replace it myself. (I can do this).



Anyway to the actual question; is there a conclusive test to confirm that the heating element has actually gone or at least one of the two within the can? A basic continuity check on both elements gives me a dead short which I'm assuming is correct, I have also tested the TCO on top of the can (as per your video) and it too shows up as dead short (no resistance in either case).



Don't want to pay out another £70-ish without being certain.



The previous 2 times (Triton engineer) the wiring had overheated and burnt out (from mains in junction block to heating element), this was replaced each time, this time this has not happened.



Was actually starting to think there was a design flaw, but a scan across the net didn't reveal anything.



Sorry for the ramble, but I'm beginning to think a replacement might be the best option.



Any help/pointers would be much appreciated.

Submitted 1175 days ago | by ma, Wychbold. WORCS.
! Answer this question

A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably the printed circuit board.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878

Once you have established the fault replacement can be ordered online via the link below

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-36-Triton-T300si-WirelessAnswered 1174 days ago | Alastair
water flowing out of overflow 1 Answer

Q: when shower is turned on, water comes out of overflow, shower functions normally but with reduced flow that does not register on panel (low pressure light does not come on) What is the problem?

Submitted 1186 days ago | by half soaked, s shropshire
! Answer this question
The pressure relief device in the remote unit has activated and must be replaced, it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below, but before fitting check that the hose is not kinked orv collapsed internallyn and thatb the head is clear.
A:
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83301330-Triton-Prd-(pressure-Relief-Device)-And-O-Ring-(pair)-83301330Answered 1185 days ago | Alastair
t300si switching on/off 1 Answer

Q: when switching shower on it jumps to economy setting,runs for roughly 15/20 secs then shuts of,then randomly switches itself on and of going from high setting to economy setting

Submitted 1192 days ago | by stuman, dunfermline,fife.scotland
! Answer this question

A: I think you may have a problem with the Power PCB

However there is just a possibility that the solenoid valve is faulty see below for how to check.

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 1191 days ago | The Doc
triton 300si remote 1 Answer

Q: The water is warm on "10" setting,have checked resistance on heater ,12ohms-15ohms.The thermal cutout (outlet)checked ok.

Submitted 1204 days ago | by winni, wv37jp
! Answer this question
Check the outlet thermal cut out mounted on the outlet pipe for continuity and check wiring visually for signs of over heating, in either case it will require replaccement.
A: If tco ok then check that there is power to each of the elements and if not then a new power printed circuit board is required.
Parts can be ordered online via the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-35-Triton-T300si-RemoteAnswered 1199 days ago | Alastair
Water spraying out of inlet pipe. 1 Answer

Q: Have just replaced the 9.5 v heater can in my T300si Remote. This was a fiddly but fairly straightforward job. However, when I turned the shower on to test it water sprayed out of the inlet pipe - the pipe that goes into the heating element can. Some did actually make it through to the shower head, but most of it went all over my bathroom floor.

Can't seem able to tighten the connection and have replaced and set up the heating element assembly exactly in the same way as the old one. Is there a washer/clamp I should have used?

Plumbers in short supply near me which is why I did this job myself and am gutted I've not got it right. Any advice gratefully received doctor.

Submitted 1238 days ago | by Lemons
! Answer this question

A: The pipe between the inlet valve and the tank have to enter each other absolutely square for this to stay sealed.

A tip ....Slip the ‘O’ ring from the old tank on to the spigot of the new one (If it is the type where the spigot is long enough to take two ‘O’ rings) this helps to keep the assembly straight.

Answered 1238 days ago | The Doc
Water not as hot 1 Answer

Q: Our shower tripped the circuit breaker and when we reset it worked fine but only on half the heat - had to turn the control knob up twice as far to get as much hot water as before, with subsequent loss of flow. Is it the heateing element that has half burned out? Are they straightforward to replace?

Submitted 1275 days ago | by Lemons
! Answer this question

A: Yes it sounds like one of the elements in the heating tank has gone down.

The links to the different heating cans are here

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/electric-showers/TRITO-PARENT-35-Triton-T300si-Remote

The replacement is fairly straight forward.

Turn of the water and power you then have to dismantle most of the inside of the shower to get enough space to slip the old part out and the new part in.

This sounds more difficult than it actually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts etc. come from and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos as you go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding.

Answered 1274 days ago | The Doc
T300si Power Pack Components 1 Answer

Q: When I switch on the Cold & Low pressure lights come on & I only get a cold shower. A plumber has checked the water pressure & says it is OK

He thinks it may be a small component any suggestions for example "Thermal Safety Cut-out"

Submitted 1433 days ago | by Bernard Mason
! Answer this question

A: I also think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

Answered 1431 days ago | The Doc
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