Bleed appears to work, but not in normal operation.

Shower stopped owrking, high speed pump, but no output. Ran the bleed option, water came out OK, both hot and cold, bith under gravity and pump. Yet immediatly after successful completion of bleed operation, back to same problem. I have taken the cover off (and disconected supply), all three solenoids read between 3.9k ohm and 4.1K ohm, all three feel warm after use, so I assume power has reached them. I also noticed that there is now water dripping onto the outlet solenoid as if the outlet was closed and the water finding its own way out from the impeller. However all the valves must (?) have been working in order for the shower to work during bleeding. Can you suggest what might need replacing? Thanks
Asked 4 years ago by Martin Williams, Towcester
Not terribly sure about this, but.....

Sounds like the motor and pump unit is leaking there fore will need replaced the leak from this has dripped on to the outlet solenoid and damaged it, it may also have damaged the outlet thermistor

Answered 4 years ago by George Thomson

Thnk you. I'll take th unit off the wal this week and take a closer look and see if it is worth repairing. Though, I suppose it cauld be the control board at fault as the outlet works OK, underpressure, in the bleed cycle, but fails immediatly on mormal use following bleeding. In the event that I do have to replace the whole thing, do you have alternatives that cold be a (nearly) straight replacement as there is not much room now to move the three water pipes?
Thanks

Answered 4 years ago by Martin Williams

Unfortunately Galaxy have stopped doing these digital showers so there is nothing that is a straight forward change over.

Answered 4 years ago by George Thomson

Nearly there...
I have replaced the thermistor (drilled out the probe and epoxied in a 100k bead thermistor). On the bench, dry, the fault seems to have dissapeared, no longer showing 'E'.

However, as noted earlier there is a leak, but now much worse and water flows down the outlet pipe during bleeding and the inside of the housing is wet. I probably made the original leak worse by testing the unit with no water. The water appears to be coming out of the shaft by the black cover at the end of the motor. Your response to someone else's query about 2 years ago implies that you do have replacement seals.

Could you let me know if you can supply new seals.

Due to the leak I do not yet know if the new thermistor will give me the reqired temperature range.

Answered 4 years ago by Martin Williams

I am afraid no seals available, however impressed with your progress

Answered 4 years ago by Barrie Seabright

Dear Doctor...

I thought I might make a short description for YouTube, but I can't be bothered (can't find a suitable program to create a simple text/picture presentation). But here is what I did - it may help you to help others in the future, or offer you a way to do it yourself on an exchange basis.

The thermistor was indeed dead, I suspect that the slight leak from the impeller input may have got into the thermistor probe and saturated the filler. I connected a 100k variable resistor in place of the thermistor and found that the remote handset displayed 1 to 9 for resistances between 70k and 30k more or less consistently. The nearest thermistor I could find to this was classified as 100k (at 25 degC). All the commercially available thermistors gave about 68 to 50 K ohms over 35 to 42 degC, not quite as I had measured but being an ex-electronic engineer I thought that the designers would have gone for a simple value (100k, no-brainer) and a cheap off-the-shelf item. I chose a 'TT3-100KC6-BZ 100K NTC' on ebay for a few pence. The spec for this was identical to many others of this type and appears to be a NATO spec as well.

I removed the probe and drilled out the filler and thermistor. Made two sleeves for the leads using sleeving from 10/0.1 wire and used some heat shrink sleeving as strain relief. Packed in some 2-part epoxy inserted the thermistor and applied more epoxy as needed. Might have been better to have used heatsink compound first and then capped with epoxy. The lead were then joined to the wires removed from the original probe and everything re-assembled.

It now works perfectly, covering the whole temperature range as before. The only thing I have noticed is that it does not like setting '9' the maximum temperature, but I think it was like this before.

I offer this in thanks for your putting me on the right track in suggesting that it was the thermistor in the first place as logically, the temperature is not an issue during the bleeding process when it would need maximum flow anyway.

Regards

Martin Williams

Answered 4 years ago by Martin Williams

It may be the solenoid valve internals that are causing this or a faulty PCB.

Answered 4 years ago by Barrie Seabright

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