This question is regarding Triton Aquatronic 2 plus electric - Shower Spares

Keeps tripping the house elctrics.

This has been operating fine for the last 4 years, but in the last week, if the shower is used on the second heat setting (seen with the two wavy red lines) it runs for about 5 seconds (roughly) then trips the RCD and all electrics, lights, upstairs and down, go off.

Because of this, we've been having to use the shower on the first heat setting (one wavy red line) and crank up the temperature dial. Works ok - but the pressure isn't there like how it is on the second heat setting with the temperature set to low.



Can someone help??
Asked 12 years ago by Anonymous

It could be one of two things it may be that you have a fuse that is too low rated or faulty or it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 12 years ago by The Shower Doctor

1) can the fuse be low rated if it worked fine without issue for 4 years? If faulty, would it just not die altogether?

I have power AND i have heat...i just have the electrics trip if i use the second heat setting. ( It never used to be this way ).

Answered 12 years ago by Anonymous

It looks that the first response is taking the wrong logic; If the shower was drawing too much power it would be the MCB which would trip, not the RCD.

It's most likely the breaking down of electrical integrity (causing leakage current), probably in the heater elements. Whether it is possible/worth replacing the heater chamber is an individual decision - certainly if the cost is more than 50% of replacing it (almost certainly more work to repair) I'd replace it like for like.

Answered 11 years ago by Anonymous

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