Triton T89i

Having pulled the cord-pull isolation switch and before pressing the start button the shower pump appeared to operate with a small amount of water coming out of the shower head. The power light subsequently went off with failure of the shower to operase. Appreciate diagnosis
Asked 8 years ago by Alan
It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 8 years ago by Anonymous

Thanks Barrie for the reply

Re Triton T80Si

The resistance across the solenoid valve terminals appears about 3.5KOhms. No power on either teminal. TCO has high resistance/ no continuity and no power on outlet terminal. But no water either hot or cold. Is it a duff TCO?

Answered 8 years ago by Alan Debenham

I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

Answered 8 years ago by Anonymous

Thanks for advice. Am ordering new TCO from Shower Doctor

Answered 8 years ago by Alan Debenham

I installed the new TCO and the shower started so showing the previous TCO had failed. However the showeer made a noise before I presdd the start button as before. I quickly pulled the isolater cord. Then pushed the start button .Then pulled the cord. The shower started and delivered hot water OK. On pushing the start button to stop the shower there was a clank and the shower shut down. The new TCO appears to have failed as the previous one. So another fault was causing the TCO to fail.

Any ideas?

Answered 8 years ago by Alan Debenham

After fitting a new TCO

When fitting a new TCO listen to the shower, after it has completed its first on/off cycle, if when it is switched off you hear it continuing to heat (Noise like a kettle starting to boil) this will mean that there is a switch or a relay that is stuck in the on position, this is keeping an element energised and this is probably what caused the original TCO to fail.

If this is the case replace the faulty switch or relay and make sure that you switch the shower off at the isolating switch when the shower is not in use because this may cause the new TCO to fail.

Answered 8 years ago by Anonymous

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